Blades wear out, that's why we don't buy one blade at a time. I've used the really expensive blades from big names like Bosch, Milwaukee, Dewalt, etc. They hold up a little better than these blades do, but they cost so much more, any longevity advantage they have is aggressively negated by the price per blade. When these blades are used for the intended purpose, wood without metal or hard abrasive material (like plaster), they hold up pretty well. To get the most out of the blades, I suggest learning best practices with an oscillating multi-tool. The two most helpful rules are, don't push too hard and angle the blade so the saw dust has an escape path. Both rules aim to reduce the heat that dulls and wears out the blade.If you hit a nail or screw, teeth will be instantly dulled and/or sheared off. This is entirely normal for a Japanese tooth blade (even the highest quality brands), but this style of blade saves a lot of cutting time and effort. I hit screws and nails all the time, and I couldn't care less about destroying such a cheap blade. If blade changes are a hassle, I suggest you buy a better multi-tool that has a toolless blade change design.One last thing to consider is that the tool you use to drive these blades makes a difference (besides faster blade changes). I started off with a Chicago Electric corded model, upgraded to a cordless Ryobi when that died after light use in under a year. Both of them had trouble cutting if you put any pressure on the blade. I upgraded to a corded Rigid Job Max, and then a Milwaukee M18 Fuel (cordless). The Rigid and Milwaukee models are so much better than the first two brands that the cheap tools feel like children's toys by comparison. I would frequently lose patience with the cheap models and push too hard to try to go faster, slowing down the cut and wearing out the blade instead.